Morris Minor Forum

Yes you guys are correcting it the right way, I used fully insulated spade connectors, with proper crimping tool when I replaced the switches and whenever I find a suspect connection. The female part has insulation covering the whole connector body and when the proper male connector is used it is all but water-proof.

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The remainder of my day was:

So, waited all afternoon for a knob to come look at the Morris. First he was coming at 3:00, then a text 4:00 is better, then we are leaving now 4:55. No consideration for the people on this end at all. He tells me he knows all about British Cars and has a big "Collection" of rare and expensive British Cars.
He finally shows up in a Range Rover with family in tow.
Then he is telling me all about his Collection of exclusive "European" cars!! So I says, "What kind are "Exclusive"...hmm?" I was expecting an Alfa or two, Jaguar, Humber, or even a Morgan. He tells me he has a Moke. Not European at all, British! A version of the Mini, he seems insulted.
Wants to take the Morris out for a drive. I said no. I told him I would drive if he wanted to go, otherwise get back in your RR and leave. He came for a "Spirited Drive".

We got back and I let him drive it in the parking lot. He couldn't even find any gear!!! Finally found 1st and told me the clutch needs bleeding. It is a mechanical linkage clutch. So much for the "Expert Collector"!! He could not get reverse either. And he wonders why I would not let him "Go" for a drive?????

Honestly where do these morons come from. I could make a guess where he was from but that would have been racist. He would not even shake hands. He also kept tapping all over the car. He didn't know where the MM weak spots are, kept telling me this and that was not original. I already knew that and put it in the ad.

I was glad to see him leave.

Iv'e been driving mine more lately as my wife has all but taken over the Rogue to shuttle her sister to doctors appointments. Just got back in tonight, 10:30 pm, back out at 6:00am so I need lights. It doesn't help that there are no street lights for 6 miles from the house.

You only need to change the bulb Ray.

At a pinch, you can reposition
the bulb/filament in it's mounting

I don't know about the States,
but soldered connections are
illegal on some vehicles in the UK.

The reasoning is: -
soldered connections can over-
heat and seperate causing fires.

Our nsurance companues
can walk away from claims.
Especially personal injury claims.

If you have soldered connections
you may consider it prudent to
check with your insurers

You using shrink wrap spades Don.

We are part of Europe by the way.

I bet the night sky looks lovely doesn't it Ray?

No problem with soldered wires in US. I have over 50 years experience with soldered wires and electric boards, avoid "cold " solder joints and they will last forever.

You are correct Mike, but over here in Canada we have a soft spot for British Made as opposed to European. Much as the New Mini (BMW) is European rather than British by new heritage. When he told me he had an "Extensive European" car collection, my mind immediately thinks Alfa, BMW, Fiat, Saab, Porsche, Ferrari, Renault even Dacia. Not being versed in British Cars is no excuse, even telling me the Engine is not original because it has an aluminum Valve Cover!!!!

Most of it is perception on our part. When attending Local British Car Shows, the European Marques are frowned upon, even the New Minis get segregated away from the "crowd". With the new world order of vehicle manufacturing, since the late 90's, COM is more blurred than ever. My Morris is a car that was built and exported to Canada, first sold by a Dealer in Winnipeg. Then the history gets murky until it resurfaced in Parry Sound Ontario a few years later. It has a Cowley Oxford England tag.
It is a genuine British Car LHD.


On the subject of soldering, in a vehicle there is a lot of vibration and this does a number on solder joints, especially cold joints. It is better to use a Butt Connector with shrink tube, but use the correct tool for the crimp, than solder. Soldering at terminal points and circuit boards is acceptable, they are usually insulated somewhat from vibration. The constant possible flexing is what destroys most soldered joints. If you are really good at soldering, much like proper welding techniques, that joint will last the life of the vehicle. The correct type and amount of solder is also key so as not to create a higher resistance at that junction.

Have used the modern
type of bullet connector Phil?

Males, females, double-headers.

They use the same crimp tool
as Lucas connectors.

I think Steve at Ol Phartz Parts
sell this sort.

Is that correct please Steve?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/70-ASSORTED-INSULATED-BULLET-CONNECTOR-ELECTRICAL-CRIMP-TERMINALS-CABLE-WIRE-/251527466843?hash=item3a90348f5b:g:IcMAAOxyBotTbhVr

Yep, I just cut some out of the car. Used butt connectors, crimped and soldered. I have yet to have a solder connector that I did fail. Your battery cables with lead terminals are basically soldered as the cable is inserted in molten lead.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-06-02 08:33 AM by 66jalopy.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-06-02 11:03 AM by 0123.

Tried that. The bulbs that were in my New Zealand - installed headlights were only available through motorcycle parts vendors in the U.S., and made in India. I bought three. Two failed within a couple of weeks. In 1961, separate bulb headlights were not legal in the U.S., so everyone used sealed beams. Now they are legal. I was going to fit good old American sealed beam headlights, but they cost more than the halogen conversions! I'm running an alternator, so I have plenty of current. And yes, I did install a fuse on each head light wire.

Back in my glory days, about a million years ago, I was a laboratory technician for seven years. I learned how to do electronics repairs, including a lot of soldering. Vibration can be a problem with lots of machinery, not just cars (think high speed centrifuge), and a good solid soldered connection should not be affected by vibration. If you get a solder connection so hot that the copper becomes brittle, you are using far more than the minimum temperature require to melt the solder. That's why you don't silver solder or braze wires together. Copper carries away the heat from the solder joint very quickly. If you are melting the insulation around the joint, you are using too much heat. I also learned how to blow glass, which is not too useful in real life, and how to run a lathe and a milling machine. That's why I have a big lathe and a small lathe in my basement, and I like to make some of my own small parts. I can also make parts to repair things like Lucas switches. So,m you guys can fix things anyway you want, by I can attest to not having a single electrical problem with my 1952 MG with its original wiring harness, or with its replacement wiring harness after I restored the car. Ditto my Morris. Once I fix things, they tend to stay fixed.

Problem with my Morris is PO did all kinds of crazy stuff with it, there is even a 6 fuse fuse box inside under the dash with loose wires that go nowhere. It really needs a new wire harness but I have neither the energy or money to do that now. I have purchased several cars in the past with burned up wiring and just repaired whatever needed to be done. Car is a daily driver so no shows, once fixed I don't need to go back either, it stays fixed.

I soldered one end as soon as the
iron was warm enough to melt the solder.

I put the soldered end in the vice.
I held the crimped end in my hand.

The crimped end endured a
more serious wiggling because
the movement came from my wrist.

After less than minutes wiggling.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-06-02 02:16 PM by 0123.