Morris Minor Forum

I renewed. Brake shoes drums an 4 new tyres

Hello All-

I bought the Firestone 145/14R tires from Performance Plus in So Cal. The first batch sent had some delamination issues after very few miles, but the friendly folks at Performance Plus replaced them no questions asked. I have had no problems after 15,000 miles on the second batch. Having driven on reproduction bias-ply tires and on tires oversized for my Morris, the difference in handling and ride (not to mention safety) of the radial Firestones is very apparent. As a bonus, the spare fits in the boot with a bit of persuasion. Be sure to thoroughly inspect the tires after inflation, I think they are made very cheaply somewhere in Eastern Europe. Coker Tire sells the same tire nearer the Eastern US. If only someone would sell reproduction wheels stateside...

Regards,

Aaron

I wish that would happen for the wide LP917 van wheels.

Jessica Z.

I purchased the following from Coker Tire:

Firestone F560 - 155R14 55592 4 $320.00

With shipping, the cost was $410.00

Thanks so much for all the great help on tires, I pulled the trigger on the firestone560 tires for 359 for four and no shipping cost. Now change the fuel pump to carb hose and install the new vacuum hose for the advance and by next weekend I should be cruising in style. Cant wait!!

Jessica, Unless you are insistent on them being Morris rims, Before I got my traveler from my brother, he had opted for a set of slightly wider than stock, Toyota wheels. The original Morris hub caps even fit

Can't cure violent shuder on steering after new shoes and drums was wondering if drum warped

I know that my new drums are out of round. Another reason I changed over to disk brakes.

Thought about discs for car a lot of hassle I have new drum on way hope it cures prob found out hammerite smooth cream paint good match for wheels will paint and see.

Today, I replaced the fuel line from pump to the carp. Replaced the vacuum advance line and fired her up. Wow started out great but carb pucking out gas from carb , the flost doestnt look like it is shutting ogg the gas. So I tried to adjust it and no difference. Float isnt saturated, but it sat for awhile so. It is either needle valve or ?
Any suggestions?
Bill

I'd start by making sure there isn't any debris in the needle valve. I went round and round with mine may times before it stopped overflowing. I think it was the third valve that fixed it. I think the first two may have =been nylon or rubber. The last one was Viton...

John, assuming the shudder happens only when braking. Considered the brake shoes may not be the correct size or the drum/shoe combination is wrong? I had a similar problem and the curve of the shoe was not quite match to the curve of the drum. Also check the surface of the brake shoe if it is not been machined smooth enough can contribute. If it aint only while braking check wheel balance, did you somehow alter the steering setup during installatio, check alignment. What about the wheel bearings, did they seat correctly, was there machine cuttings maybe still on the bearing seat?

John, I am back in the 'States now after two years in Oz. While I was there I had been intending to complete a restoration on a Wolseley 1500 I had purchased soon after arriving. I ran out of time before being sent home, but I manage to bring home a lot of components with me I knew would fit the Morris we purchased at the 11th hour (I really wanted to bring something home that had been built in Australia and our little Morris 1000 was indeed built in the Nuffield (Australia) BMC plant just outside of Sydney.

To keep a long story long, quite a few Wolseley 1500 parts - especially the front end and brakes, are virtual bolt-ons for the Minor - including the much larger front drums. It will certainly be easier for you to find Wolseley bits in the U.K. than it ever will be for me here State-side, so I thought I'd mention it. Also, while preparing these parts for reassembly onto my Wolseley (that never happened), I had the local brake specialist "radius-grind" the shoes to match the drums. This is something virtually no brake shop does anymore in the USA, but I was happy to find someone who still did in Victoria while we were there. This ensures your shoes are exactly conformed to the drum, and helps to eliminate shudder. You may also find that using a hand-file to put a small chamfer on the ends of the shoes, rather than leaving them at a straight 90 degree face, will help too. Also, make sure your return springs are fully secured and installed the right way 'round.

Cheers,

Tom

You are correct Thomas W, in my day we used to "radius a lot of shoes to drums", it was the only way to get smooth braking, especially if installing Oversize shoes which we used to get a lot of call for taxis and heavy duty vehicles.

Today the best way is to file, sand or grind gently a small chamfer at each end of the new shoes, this helps with the seating of the shoes to the drum and stops most shuddering problems associated with brake shoes. It doesn't take much, a small angle is all that is needed.

Picked up some minor wheels and dropped them off to the powder coater along with the carb filter box.
I finally got my tires intoday from universal vintage tires from pennsylvania. All other supplers were out of the fireston tires including coker who took my money then refunded it back.
New air filters came in today and now waiting for my title.
Almost ready for the road.

So far I have tomthank all members who have helped solve some problems and make the right decision on tires.
Bill