Morris Minor Forum

Johnny - On page 121 of Ray Newell's book on the Traveller, it says "Replacing a wheel arch front section: This is best done at the same time as the foot rail; otherwise part of the joint at the bottom of the wheel arch will have to be cut away. The process of fitting this section is exactly the same as for the rear section." (Except it isn't if the wood has not been removed).
There's a picture on page 95 that shows the metal with the wood out of the way. There is another picture on p. 104. There is no good picture of a foot rail, but it is shown on page 102. The panel is sandwiched between the foot rail and the body metal. You can't get it out without removing the foot rail or modifying it, me thinks. Glad my body work was done decades before I bought my Traveller. Now all I need to do is repaint the whole front of the car, which will wait, and wait, and wait... - Ray

Many thanks Ray,

I don't have Ray Newells books unfortunately Ray so is there any chance of taking photos of the relevant diagrams?

Also I have no plan to remove the woodwork unless I find rot, which thus far is only minor and repairable. Or replace wheel arches as they are solid.

I have read every book I have all recommend removing aluminium panels before repainting, but none say how to do it, not even the restoration book.

I believe Ron got his panels out without removing the timber so I remain hopeful.

I take that back Ray I have just ordered the Traveller book from Amazon. Should be with me by Monday, also found a copy of his Super Profile of the Morris Minor and 1000.

All the best Johnny



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2021-01-22 10:02 AM by johnnyw637.

Johnny, I'll check the hundreds of photos and notes I kept during the dismantling of the car in prep for the restoration. Give me a few days and if you don't hear from me, DON'T be afraid to remind me!

Ron

Well that book came quickly as I ordered it last night and it arrived this morning ,

Ray certainly Mr Newell shows the whole side off complete with panels and wing attached and indeed it may come to that being the way to go. But it seems rather a lot of work to simply get the panels out. I found it very interesting and useful in the assembly line shots, that in one the frame with panels attached showed that the two lowest screws were quite high up and not along the bottom edge of the front panel. This is good news providing someone hasn't decided that one in the bottom edge would be a good idea, as it would mean only old varnish and mastic is gluing the edge in place on mine.

In the meantime I am trying my hand at the other side, having put it back on dollies to give me room to get to the car. A few bits removed thus far, I was pleased to get my daughters help yesterday as always good to have company and to involve the family (especially as I'd like her to appreciate the old bangers as she see them enough to use one one day).


All the best and have a great weekend Johnny

Many thanks Ron,

We must have posted at the same time as I missed your message till a second ago.

All the very best

Johnny

I went out to my (cold) garage and crawled under Miss Marple. The bottom rail on my car was screwed on from the bottom with one screw at each end. There is mastic all around the joint with the forward side panel. I suspect everything was glued together during assembly. I can't tell the assembly order, but I am puzzled that there is a large gap between the bottom (wood) rail and the metal step behind it - maybe three quarters of an inch as seen from under the car. Seems like a good place to collect wet debris, however it's all nice and clean. I've driven the car in the rain quite a few times and there's no problem with water going where it shouldn't go. The little beast is water tight. I replaced all the window rubbers and the door gaskets, although I have never replaced the weather stripping around the rear doors. Oh well, there's always something to do.

LOL I keep looking at those rear window seals as I dismantle and think I really must do those. I just know I will regret if I don't do now. But they don't look easy to me move after however many years they have sat there .

Cheers Johnny

Johnny, replacing all the window seals was a big job. I did it two winters ago. There must be some tricks to it, but I didn't find them. It just took time. Yu can do it later. Nothing else has to come out besides the inside wood strips.

definitely worth doing now then Ray whilst it is apart. Sorry I misread your writing, it is the rear door strips you were referring to, those I have sitting in a box of new bits.

Just came in as it is a tad chilly out in the garage dark anyway now, so not exactly inducive to work.

Cheers Johnny



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2021-01-23 10:48 AM by johnnyw637.

Actually started painting my car with Sage Green for the first time in the respiration. Baby steps, its just part of the underside and a wheel arch, but it felt good. My first attempt at using a spray gun with a compressor; I was worried my little compressor would not be good enough but it was just about up to the job. I wouldn’t use it to paint a panel because the paint pot on the gun isn’t big enough and I’m not very good, but for what it is, I’m pretty happy. A few runs here and there, some dust on the fresh paint and some spotty coverage because of all the nooks and crannies, but after some sanding it will be good enough for a part of the car that very few will ever see!

Respiration = Restoration!

Looks good from the photo's Tim,

Not surprised you're satisfied

Have a great week

Cheers Johnny

Looks good! Five years ago I bought a turbine driven HVLP paint sprayer. I was going to paint my MG myself. My wife put her foot down, saying that modern paint was so toxic, I'd damage my already damaged lungs. She authorized spending the money for a professional strip and repaint, which was far from inexpensive. So the HVLP apparatus is in a cabinet in my basement. I guess I should sell it on to the next guy whose wife won't let him use it. Meanwhile, my Traveller needs a repaint from the front bumper to the seem in the roof. The back half is in great shape. I've been thinking about that, and touching up the chips and dings, for the past two years.

I did a lot of research on how to do it. I used single stage urethane paint on top of POR-15. The wheelarches got an extra two coats of POR-15 bedliner. I set up the garage by draping plastic sheets over almost everything and I used a large fan to extract air, with air coming into the garage via a small side door. I also wetted down the floor to try to control dust. I used a couple of cheap Harbor Freight water filters to remove moisture from the air hose. And I wore P95 NIOSH respirator mask. Will send video soon...

Certainly looks good Tim,

When I did my Midget about 3 or 4 years ago, like you I put plastic dust sheets all over, one tip I learnt the hard way though was to have some of the plastic on the car and above. Next time will use paper in these areas as the dry paint can flake off the plastic when caught by drafts or being knocked.

Then again I'm never going to achieve a concourse show room finish with my set up.

Look forward to the finished job and how much more pride than just paying someone , not that there is anything wrong with that

Cheers Johnny