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Front fender, (wing) attaching bolts.

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66jalopy Avatar
66jalopy Phillip Jolliffe
Lake City, FL, USA   USA
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Started to do some work to prepare for paint job. Found that one bolt was loose were fender attaches to back. Will not tighten, just spins. I guess the attached back nut broke free. Any recommendations on how to repair without removing the fender? It is all solid rust free metal back there.

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0123 Mike D
Biddulph, Staffs, UK   GBR
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In reply to # 16195 by 66jalopy Started to do some work to prepare for paint job. Found that one bolt was loose were fender attaches to back. Will not tighten, just spins. I guess the attached back nut broke free. Any recommendations on how to repair without removing the fender? It is all solid rust free metal back there.

Is there an argument against doing nothing Phillipsmiling smiley
.

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emjay Jim English
Etters, PA, USA   USA
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If it's the upper one, it can be reached (difficulty) from behind the dash, through the glove box. The center one requires cutting through the kidney panel. You are planning on removing the fender sometime? Then cut the bolt and cut out inner fender and replace. Only other option I know is cut a whole in front of the fender flange so that you can grab the nut.

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66jalopy Phillip Jolliffe
Lake City, FL, USA   USA
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Reason to get it tight, When trying to lever it out a little it made a sharp clack noise. The same voice I have been trying to find for 3 years. Car way too solid to cut inner fender out. I had considered cutting a hole inside to get to it and may still have to. More research to come. I see no reason to remove fender at this point, would tack it in place before I did that.

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0123 Mike D
Biddulph, Staffs, UK   GBR
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In reply to # 16200 by 66jalopy Reason to get it tight, When trying to lever it out a little it made a sharp clack noise. The same voice I have been trying to find for 3 years. Car way too solid to cut inner fender out. I had considered cutting a hole inside to get to it and may still have to. More research to come. I see no reason to remove fender at this point, would tack it in place before I did that.

How about garotting the neck of the bolt with high tensile wire (of a suitable diameter) Phillip smiling smiley

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66jalopy Phillip Jolliffe
Lake City, FL, USA   USA
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I have temporarily hammered two shims in there, better but not tight enough, considered making wedge to jam in there.

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0123 Mike D
Biddulph, Staffs, UK   GBR
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In reply to # 16202 by 66jalopy I have temporarily hammered two shims in there, better but not tight enough, considered making wedge to jam in there.

E-clip?

Spring clips come in all shapes and sizes: -

http://www.camlock.com/English%28UK%29/HTML/Accessories-SC1.php

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=spring+clip+brake+cylinder&_sop=15&_osacat=131090&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X+clip+brake+cylinder.TRS0&_nkw=+clip+brake+cylinder&_sacat=131090
.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2016-02-26 01:29 PM by 0123.

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emjay Jim English
Etters, PA, USA   USA
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Fish your new endoscope down there and do some surgery. If the threads aren't too bad, you might get lucky and push the flaps back down, but I suspect the cage is rusty too. It's probably impossible to side anything with any length since there is very little height available. You would need a tapered tool that would pull the flaps in and then hold the nut. More feasible to come up from the bottom. When I had one, I cut access through the kidney panel. It was a restoration, so I just welded when I was done, but a cold cover under the interior panel works. You really just need a small access hole since the nut is right behind the inner panel. The tricky part is hitting the right spot.

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nudenut Reg K
Perth, Perth Western Australia, Australia   AUS
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What I did with similar problem was use 1mm thick wheel on angle grinder and carefully cut thru bolt.

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