Morris Minor Forum
Anyone please help me asap
Posted by AnyoneHelp
|
AnyoneHelp
Jordan Campbell
Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK
Sign in to contact
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Sep 19, 2015 08:02 PM
Joined 10 years ago
3 Posts
|
Look im going to be straight to the point, i dont know much about morris minors but i need help on the best things to do before trying to start the engine because it hasnt started for a while now
Attachments:
|
Sep 19, 2015 08:46 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 14 years ago
4,925 Posts
|
|
How long has the oil fill cap been off? Was the car inside or outside? Assuming minimal moisture and dirt has gotten inside, change the oil, take out the spark plugs, put a little oil in the cylinders (people have their favorites that include automatic trans fluid, Marvel Mystery oil, motor oil, etc), and turn the engine over with the hand crank to get a feel for it. If it feels smooth and free, use the starter and watch for the oil light to go out, even better to have a pressure gauge. Then confirm the ignition is working by connecting the plugs and ground them. Then crank the engine and observe the sparks. Next is fuel. Check the operation of the carb to ensure nothing is stuck. Energize the pump and look for leaks. Assuming it was in good running shape when it was last run, you should be ready to start it.
|
AnyoneHelp
Jordan Campbell
Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK
Sign in to contact
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Sep 21, 2015 11:59 AM
Joined 10 years ago
3 Posts
|
I have no idea how long its been there and i have no idea how long the caps been missing too... the tax disk on the car was finished in think 1993 and its been under a bit of shelter... i also have this image of the actual car if thats any help? (sorry for not being much help)
|
66jalopy
Phillip Jolliffe
|
Sep 22, 2015 09:58 AM
Joined 13 years ago
2,533 Posts
|
There is a post on starting a sleeping Midget on the MG Midget forum, Same basic engine with 2 carbs instead of 1. Basically, if engine will turn over, You will need to at least clean the float bowl and clean and check the points for adjustment.
about 1 week and 3 days later...
|
Oct 3, 2015 08:57 AM
Joined 11 years ago
6,030 Posts
|
|
.
Please may I suggest you take the tin thingy (rocker box) off the top of the engine Jordan, and check how much clag there is inside before you start doing start things?
If it's clagged up in there, I suggest you clean the clag out.
And then check for clag inside the tin thingies (tappet covers) on the engine behind the exhaust / carburettor doofer (manifold)
If that's clagged up too, I suggest you take the tin thingy (sump) off the bottom of the engine, and muck that out too.
If you've got a tarry layer firmly stuck on the bottom of the sump, I suggest you leave it there as it quietens a rattley engine down no end
Good luck
Please may I suggest you take the tin thingy (rocker box) off the top of the engine Jordan, and check how much clag there is inside before you start doing start things?
If it's clagged up in there, I suggest you clean the clag out.
And then check for clag inside the tin thingies (tappet covers) on the engine behind the exhaust / carburettor doofer (manifold)
If that's clagged up too, I suggest you take the tin thingy (sump) off the bottom of the engine, and muck that out too.
If you've got a tarry layer firmly stuck on the bottom of the sump, I suggest you leave it there as it quietens a rattley engine down no end
Good luck

|
Oct 5, 2015 12:12 PM
Joined 10 years ago
8 Posts
|
|
In addition to other replies, check that the fuel pump clicks rapidly until fuel fills the carburettor. If it doesn't, you will need to get the pump serviced or replaced.
once that's working, if it doesn't pump fuel, check the fuel line for blockage - disconnect it at both ends and blow compressed air through it.
If it still won't pump fuel once that's clear, it's likely that the pickup tube in the tank is blocked. Stale fuel that evaporates can leave gummy varnish deposits that go rock-hard in the pickup tube. They can also freeze the float arm that makes the fuel gauge work.
The fuel level needs to be lower than the sender unit that is screwed to the top of the tank before you unscrew it.
Then remove it and look at the condition of the unit - does the float arm move freely? Is it coated with "clag?" If so it needs careful cleaning until movement is restored - use CRC.
It's also an indication as to whether the pickup pipe in the tank is blocked. This pipe can be removed through the fuel outlet hole on the front of the tank. The pipe has a bend in it so needs to be manipulated as you withdraw it.
If you can't get it fully out, there's probably a nylon filter on the end of it. To remove this, I put a long screwdriver into the tank through the float unit hole and hit it until the filter dropped into the tank. The blockage material in the pipe then had to be drilled out. That ended the problem.
Put a line filter just in front of the pump to protect it.
Email ob1nz@infogen.net.nz to discuss further - I just finished a 9 year restoration of a 1962 model.
once that's working, if it doesn't pump fuel, check the fuel line for blockage - disconnect it at both ends and blow compressed air through it.
If it still won't pump fuel once that's clear, it's likely that the pickup tube in the tank is blocked. Stale fuel that evaporates can leave gummy varnish deposits that go rock-hard in the pickup tube. They can also freeze the float arm that makes the fuel gauge work.
The fuel level needs to be lower than the sender unit that is screwed to the top of the tank before you unscrew it.
Then remove it and look at the condition of the unit - does the float arm move freely? Is it coated with "clag?" If so it needs careful cleaning until movement is restored - use CRC.
It's also an indication as to whether the pickup pipe in the tank is blocked. This pipe can be removed through the fuel outlet hole on the front of the tank. The pipe has a bend in it so needs to be manipulated as you withdraw it.
If you can't get it fully out, there's probably a nylon filter on the end of it. To remove this, I put a long screwdriver into the tank through the float unit hole and hit it until the filter dropped into the tank. The blockage material in the pipe then had to be drilled out. That ended the problem.
Put a line filter just in front of the pump to protect it.
Email ob1nz@infogen.net.nz to discuss further - I just finished a 9 year restoration of a 1962 model.
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or click Contact Support at the bottom of the page.











