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Rear Wheel Cylinders

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doxendine Donnie Oxendine
Huntingburg, IN, USA   USA
Repaired a leaking rear hub, then the differential pinion seal and now my left rear wheel cyliner is leaking on my 58 Minor. Queation I have is what size is the cylinder bore? I'm hoping to possibly find the correct size cups locally to rebuild.

Thanks

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emjay Jim English
Etters, PA, USA   USA
They should be 7/8in unless someone replaced them with the later 3/4 in ones used with the 8 in brakes. Yes, local sourced cups work great. Do the chain stores have them in bulk like the old style suppliers did? NAPA might.

doxendine Donnie Oxendine
Huntingburg, IN, USA   USA
I'm checking tomorrow. I just ordered a new pair from Moss in case my rebuild fails.

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John in Eugene Avatar
John in Eugene Platinum Member John Quilter
Eugene, OR, USA   USA
I have to respectively disagree with my friend Jim English. In my over 50 years of Morris Minor ownership, and tinkering, I have never had any long term success with simply replacing the cups in wheel cylinders. I almost always find that there are small pits from corrosion in the cylinders and they do not take a simple "rebuilding" well no matter how much honing you do. My solution would be either replace the complete cylinder, or for a lifetime fix, have your cylinder sleeved in brass or stainless then replace the rubber components. Putting a cylinder back in that may likely fail will only mean you have to change the cylinder AND the shoes at a later date.

John F. Quilter
Eugene, Oregon USA

In reply to # 34262 by doxendine I'm checking tomorrow. I just ordered a new pair from Moss in case my rebuild fails.

0123 Mike D
Biddulph, Staffs, UK   GBR
In reply to # 34260 by doxendine Repaired a leaking rear hub, then the differential pinion seal and now my left rear wheel cyliner is leaking on my 58 Minor. Queation I have is what size is the cylinder bore? Measure it thumbs up I'm hoping to possibly find the correct size cups locally to rebuild.
Bearing our 3rd World Currency in mind
https://www.nelsonstokes.com/
are probably a better bet
than real 3rd world stuff thumbs up


Thanks

emjay Jim English
Etters, PA, USA   USA
Wheel cylinders fail one of two ways. The fluid leaks or the cylinder freezes. With any car the latter is more common than the former with typical usage. High frequency mileage and high brake usage can lead to more fluid leakage. Without a doubt brass sleeving the cylinders will reduce the latter. The next best alternative is to coat the cylinder with red rubber grease and of course check the operation of the cylinders often. Here in PA we had safety inspection probably longer than any other state and I noticed that the inspectors checked for wet cylinders but not if the cylinder actually worked and IF they did a test drive, that would be the only way they would catch it IF the brakes were unbalanced. Up until the last twenty-five years or so with the much better supply of replacement wheel cylinders (all cars), it was extremely common for even profession mechanics to rebuild cylinders with a hone and a rebuild kit. It's a personal choice. It does avoid the possibility of making a bigger job of removing stubborn brake line fittings.

IF one decides to rebuild, here are the particulars for Minors. Front kits come with the O-ring that seals the the cylinder from the outside world only when the piston returns fully and the metal cap is clean. If you look for local ones, make sure the material is rated for any fluids it might encounter. The rears are much more involved. First, the handbrake lever slot does not allow honing. The aluminum cylinder and steel piston are prone to corroding together. Steel wool and lots of manually effort will clean up the muck but inspect for scratches. Kits also come with boots and the seal for the outer piston. If the boot is not torn or worn, it can be reused and they can be purchased separately. The seal for the outer piston might be able to be reused. At this point I don't know of a replacement although an O-ring might work.

The disclaimer, this is for those who decided to follow this route.

0123 Mike D
Biddulph, Staffs, UK   GBR
Oi up our Jim smiling smiley

A big problem with brakes is the iron leaches
the copper out of brass, to form the black stuff
you find in nackered brakes.

Stainless liners don't contribute to that problem.

"Corrosion inhibitors depleted Require flushing

A copper content of 200 ppm or greater indicates a
depletion of corrosion inhibitors in the brake fluid
"

http://amra.org/uploads/publishing/large/5C-%20Brake%20Fluid%20Update.pdf



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-01-17 06:40 AM by 0123.

0123 Mike D
Biddulph, Staffs, UK   GBR
I make me own brake cylinder hones.
Lovely gentle things they be.

I gets a long bit of 1/2" dowel.

Staples a sandwhich of wet and dry
along with foam,
the sort one uses on door panels
to the end of the foam.

Then I holds the cylinder in me vice,
inserts the dumb end of the dowel in my drill,
inserts the hone end of me dowel in the cylinder,
squirts a generous dollop of clean brake fluid,
and fires up me drill.

It'll do Minor rear brake cylinders a treat.
And gives a loverly finish.

The long length of dowel
makes it easier to keep the hone straught thumbs up

Altogether, and ace bit of kit smileys with beer

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