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Faulty Heater Valves (Later Type)

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MrTom Thomas G
Colchester, Essex, UK   GBR
I had a new lead free head put on my 1964 saloon a few years back and as soon as I had the car back on the road the heater valve, which is bolted onto the head behind the rocker box cover, broke in two and I had a new one put on by the garage.
The car was then garaged for a couple of years while I was abroad so didn´t go anywhere.
Earlier this year I was working on it and the heater valve just split in two when I was putting the rocker box cover back on after adjusting the tappers. It was still pretty much brand new and the brass plate that sits on the three little prongs on the end of the valve body had simply come of the prongs. So I spent some time sourcing another one and after inspecting it for faults I bolted it on.
Now, after less than 200 miles driving, that one is leaking from the same place where the brass end plate fits onto the valve body.
All the time the car actual has been driving, the heater works very well (I think it has an upgraded element) so ther are no obstructions causing a pressure build up or anything.
Has anybody else had similar problems and, if so, how did they overcome them.
Has anyone tried fitted a mini heater valve to a 1098 engine or does it stop the rocker box cover from coming off.

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0123 Mike D
Biddulp, Staffs, UK   GBR
In reply to # 25117 by MrTom I had a new lead free head put on my 1964 saloon a few years back and as soon as I had the car back on the road the heater valve, which is bolted onto the head behind the rocker box cover, broke in two and I had a new one put on by the garage.
The car was then garaged for a couple of years while I was abroad so didn´t go anywhere.
Earlier this year I was working on it and the heater valve just split in two when I was putting the rocker box cover back on after adjusting the tappers. It was still pretty much brand new and the brass plate that sits on the three little prongs on the end of the valve body
I'm a but baffled by the idea of three little prongs Tom.

The valves I know are in the pic below..
I've fitted the later type in place of the early one.
You need a cable to operate it.

24 quid plus post from Charlie Ware.
I daresay if you shop around
you'll find a cheaper one.

May I suggest you remove the
studs that hold the valve in place.

And clean/level where the gasket goes.


had simply come of the prongs. So I spent some time sourcing another one and after inspecting it for faults I bolted it on.
Now, after less than 200 miles driving, that one is leaking from the same place where the brass end plate fits onto the valve body.
All the time the car actual has been driving, the heater works very well (I think it has an upgraded element) so ther are no obstructions causing a pressure build up or anything.
Has anybody else had similar problems and, if so, how did they overcome them.
Has anyone tried fitted a mini heater valve to a 1098 engine or does it stop the rocker box cover from coming off.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-28 02:11 PM by 0123.


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Ferd 2.jpg

0123 Mike D
Biddulp, Staffs, UK   GBR
Charlie sells the brass base
seperately for 4 quid plus post
if that's the part you have broken.

HTR103 16 BASE - VALVE - EARLY 3.85

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MrTom Thomas G
Colchester, Essex, UK   GBR
Mike D

Thanks for that.

The 1964 saloon is fitted with the later type heater valve and is a metal cylinder with a simple round plunger type piston inside which, when pulled along the inside barrel of the cylinder, acts as a switch to halt the passage of hot water from the engine cooling system to the heater, through to the heater element.
I shall try and post a photo later on if I find out how but it could be compared to a very short and wide metal bicycle pump which is operated by pulling a wire from a switch under the dashboard, like the choke which, via a lever mounted on a brass plate attached to one end of the cylinder, moves the circular rubber piston from one end of the barrel to the other which acts like a cut off for the water. A spring enables the return.
This brass plate is itself fixed onto the grey metal cylindrical body of the valve by means of pressing it onto three metal metal spigots which engage into corresponding holes in the brass plate, yet there is no gasket seal between the join nor is it spot welded together, it simply pops off under pressure and water jets out all over the battery and engine bay.
As it has occurred three times in a very short space of driving time I am wondering whether there is not something wrong with the car. The only alternative is that the present day manufacturers of these valves has quality control issues. It would be interesting to hear from anyone who has encountered similar problems or perhaps knows whether there are presently a choice of different manufacturers for these. I cannot remember if Quinton Hazel used to do one or not before they went bust but I am looking for a used one now.

Happy Days

MrT

0123 Mike D
Biddulp, Staffs, UK   GBR
The body of the one in my yard is
made from "Monkey metal" (Mazak)

4 peened over tits hold the back onto
the body.

If I had your problem, I would screw a
barbed nozzle into a brass base, and
mount a ball valve in the cab.

Then use the ball valve to control flow.

The choke cable control leaves a lot
to be desired in my book.

I'd also bung the broken taps back
for refunds

MrTom Thomas G
Colchester, Essex, UK   GBR
That sounds like a good solution but might be a bit beyond my toolbox.
How do you find a brass plate with barbed nozzle to fit?

0123 Mike D
Biddulp, Staffs, UK   GBR
Buy a brass base plate; take it to
your local hydraulic fitting emporium.

0123 Mike D
Biddulp, Staffs, UK   GBR

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Ferd.jpg

0123 Mike D
Biddulp, Staffs, UK   GBR
Is your toolbox up to filing the tits
/ spigots of the Mazak body Tom?

plumby Phil P
Surrey Hills, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia   AUS
This issue has been widely discussed among the MMOC members in UK. There was definitely a quality issue, and those three crimp fastenings at one end of the valve mechanism would either come apart or start to leak.

I think the defective parts may now have all been sold or returned! Instead, I think a lot of owners went back to the hand-operated upright tap-type valve on the back of the block (not cable operated though!).



Phil Plumbe
Surrey Hills, Melbourne, Australia

0123 Mike D
Biddulp, Staffs, UK   GBR
Would you happen to know
if anyone has successfully
filed the tits off,
drilled the flange,
and then bolted
the back plate back on
the body please Phil?

In reply to # 25134 by plumby This issue has been widely discussed among the MMOC members in UK. There was definitely a quality issue, and those three crimp fastenings at one end of the valve mechanism would either come apart or start to leak.

I think the defective parts may now have all been sold or returned! Instead, I think a lot of owners went back to the hand-operated upright tap-type valve on the back of the block (not cable operated though!).

MrTom Thomas G
Colchester, Essex, UK   GBR
Thanks for all those replies and please accept my apologies for not posting yesterday. I´
m afraid I can only post when I am in a WI FI zone as I do not have any connection at home, so my input may be sporadic. I see that really I need to make some sort of adaptio to the existing set up but I´m not sure if I´ll be able to position a tap inside the car yet as I don´t really have the tools.
Do either of you know if the early type valve fits straight onto the engine housing or perhaps whether an angled, Mini one that utilises the cable fits on without impeding the rocker box cover?

Best Regards

MrT

0123 Mike D
Biddulp, Staffs, UK   GBR
This one did Tom
But the cable didn't..


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MrTom Thomas G
Colchester, Essex, UK   GBR
Well, thank you all for your comments on this.
The conclusion I arrived at was to follow Plumby´s offering and I have ordered the old, water tap style valve as it I reckon it´ll only require turning off once in May and then back on again October.
That will free up that area under the dashboard for something more useful. A hazard light switch perhaps?

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